Ujjain Travel Guide

Ujjain tourism centres on Shri Mahakaleshwar, one of the twelve Jyotirlingas of Lord Shiva, but this ancient city on the Shipra river in Madhya Pradesh offers far more: the Shri Mahakal Lok corridor, evening aarti at Ram Ghat, the Harsiddhi Shakti Peeth, Kal Bhairav, Sandipani Ashram and an 18th-century astronomical observatory.

Known in ancient texts as Avantika and Ujjayini, Ujjain is one of the seven sacred cities (Sapta Puri) of Hinduism and one of the four cities that host the Kumbh Mela, held here as the Simhastha every twelve years. It was also the reference meridian of classical Indian astronomy, which is why the city is often called the Greenwich of ancient India.

Most of the major temples sit within a few kilometres of each other, so a well-planned two-day visit covers the essentials. Indore, 53 km away, is the nearest airport, and Ujjain Junction has direct trains from across India.

• Mahakaleshwar Jyotirlinga: the south-facing (Dakshinamukhi) Jyotirlinga and its famous pre-dawn Bhasma Aarti.
• Shri Mahakal Lok: a 900-metre walkway of carved pillars, murals and statues telling the stories of Shiva, beautifully lit after dark.
• The Shipra ghats: evening aarti at Ram Ghat, the main bathing ghat of the Simhastha Kumbh.
• Things to do beyond the temples: Ujjain's Vedh Shala observatory, the Bhartrihari caves, Kaliadeh Palace and Bherugarh's GI-tagged batik workshops.
• Malwa food: poha-jalebi for breakfast and dal bafla for lunch.
• Easy add-ons: Omkareshwar Jyotirlinga, Indore and Maheshwar are all within a few hours by road.