Goa has the most developed and least restricted nightlife in India, and for many visitors it is a primary reason to come.
North Goa is where the scene is. Baga and Calangute hold the mainstream clubs and beach bars — loud, commercial and busy, particularly during the December-January peak. Anjuna and Vagator have the older, more countercultural end, with a trance and electronic music history going back to the 1960s hippie era and a run of well-known clubs on the cliffs. Morjim, Ashwem and Arambol further north are more relaxed, with beach shacks, live music and a longer-stay crowd.
Assagao and Siolim inland have become the centre of Goa's more sophisticated scene — restaurants, wine bars and design-led venues rather than clubs.
South Goa is deliberately quiet. Palolem has silent discos — where the crowd wears headphones — precisely because amplified music on beaches after 10pm is restricted. Otherwise, the south is about beach shacks, sunset drinks and early nights.
Panaji has the casinos, mostly floating on the Mandovi river, which operate legally in Goa in a way they do not in most Indian states.
Practical points: