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Local Food in Varanasi

Part of our full Varanasi travel guide.

Varanasi's food is distinctively its own — predominantly vegetarian, given the religious context, with a strong street-food and sweet tradition.

The classic Banarasi breakfast is kachori sabzi — a fried, spiced-lentil-stuffed pastry served with a potato curry, often accompanied by jalebi. Eaten early, standing at a stall, it is the correct way to start a day in Varanasi.

Other savoury specialities:

  1. Chaat — Varanasi's chaat is highly regarded, particularly tamatar chaat (a spiced tomato preparation quite unlike chaat elsewhere) and palak chaat (crisp-fried spinach leaves with yoghurt and chutneys)
  2. Baati chokha — baked wheat dough balls served with mashed spiced vegetables (chokha) and dal, a rustic Purvanchal speciality
  3. Litti chokha — the related Bihari dish, widely available
  4. Nimish or malaiyo — a seasonal winter delicacy, an extraordinarily light milk foam flavoured with saffron and cardamom, made overnight in the winter dew. Available only roughly December to February. If you visit in winter, seek it out — there is nothing else quite like it.
  5. Dahi vada, samosa, and various fried snacks at street stalls throughout the old city

Sweets:

  1. Rabri — thickened, reduced milk, often served with jalebi
  2. Launglata — a clove-pinned stuffed pastry in syrup
  3. Malai gilori and malai roll — delicate milk sweets
  4. Peda and barfi — widely available

Lassi — Varanasi's thick lassi, often served in a clay cup and topped with malai (cream), is a genuine speciality. Several long-running lassi shops in the old city are institutions.

Banarasi paan — Perhaps the city's most famous product after silk. Betel leaf folded around areca nut, lime paste, katha and various flavourings — sweet (meetha) versions are what most visitors try. Paan is chewed and the residue spat out; if you're not accustomed, ask for a small meetha paan and be aware that it's not swallowed. Note that paan containing tobacco (zarda) is carcinogenic and should be avoided.

Thandai — A cold spiced milk drink with almonds, fennel and rose. Note that a variant called bhang thandai contains cannabis preparation, which is legally sold in Varanasi at licensed government bhang shops and is traditionally associated with Shiva worship, particularly at Holi and Mahashivaratri. Effects are strong, slow to arrive and long-lasting, and many visitors have had genuinely bad experiences by underestimating it. If it doesn't appeal, always confirm you are ordering plain thandai.