Varanasi's food is distinctively its own — predominantly vegetarian, given the religious context, with a strong street-food and sweet tradition.
The classic Banarasi breakfast is kachori sabzi — a fried, spiced-lentil-stuffed pastry served with a potato curry, often accompanied by jalebi. Eaten early, standing at a stall, it is the correct way to start a day in Varanasi.
Other savoury specialities:
Sweets:
Lassi — Varanasi's thick lassi, often served in a clay cup and topped with malai (cream), is a genuine speciality. Several long-running lassi shops in the old city are institutions.
Banarasi paan — Perhaps the city's most famous product after silk. Betel leaf folded around areca nut, lime paste, katha and various flavourings — sweet (meetha) versions are what most visitors try. Paan is chewed and the residue spat out; if you're not accustomed, ask for a small meetha paan and be aware that it's not swallowed. Note that paan containing tobacco (zarda) is carcinogenic and should be avoided.
Thandai — A cold spiced milk drink with almonds, fennel and rose. Note that a variant called bhang thandai contains cannabis preparation, which is legally sold in Varanasi at licensed government bhang shops and is traditionally associated with Shiva worship, particularly at Holi and Mahashivaratri. Effects are strong, slow to arrive and long-lasting, and many visitors have had genuinely bad experiences by underestimating it. If it doesn't appeal, always confirm you are ordering plain thandai.