Two days — the essentials
Day 1 — River and old city
- 5.30am: sunrise boat ride along the ghats
- Breakfast: kachori sabzi and jalebi at a street stall
- Morning: walk the ghats from Assi northward, or from Dashashwamedh south
- Late morning: Kashi Vishwanath Temple (expect queues and security; leave phone at accommodation)
- Lunch: Banarasi thali or street food around Godowlia
- Afternoon: rest — the middle of the day is best avoided
- Late afternoon: explore the old-city lanes, Vishwanath Gali
- Evening: Ganga Aarti at Dashashwamedh Ghat — arrive 45 minutes early or take a boat
Day 2 — Sarnath and beyond
- Morning: Sarnath — Dhamek Stupa, monastery ruins, Mulagandha Kuti Vihar, and the Archaeological Museum for the Lion Capital
- Lunch: back in the city or at Sarnath
- Afternoon: Banaras Hindu University — New Vishwanath Temple, Bharat Kala Bhavan museum
- Late afternoon: Sankat Mochan Hanuman Temple, Durga Temple
- Evening: Assi Ghat — quieter aarti, rooftop café, or a classical music recital
Three to four days
Days 1 and 2 as above.
Day 3 — Depth
- Early morning: second boat ride, this time going further along the crescent, or the Subah-e-Banaras programme at Assi Ghat
- Morning: Ramnagar Fort across the river
- Lunch: local
- Afternoon: silk showroom visit (a genuine one — arrange through your accommodation, not a street contact)
- Evening: aarti from a different vantage point, or a music performance